A Curious Place

At the end of March 2026, I was making my way down to Kongōfukuji Temple, number 38 on the pilgrimage, when I decided to change my plans. Instead of following the Ashizuri Cape coastline all the way around, I would follow the Shimonokae River to Enkōji Temple (number 39). To do this, however, I needed somewhere to stay for two nights, so I could visit the cape and walk back. Luckily, there was a very special hotel in exactly the right spot: Kaiyu.

Kaiyu is a bit of a curiosity. From a distance, it looks like a large luxury hotel or condominium complex straight out of the 1960s or 1970s. Overlooking Oki Beach, the white façade immediately stands out. As you get closer, you begin to realise that it probably was once just that, although the exterior has weathered considerably.

Then, as you approach the entrance, you notice a strong smell of burning wood. The swimming pool is empty, and what was probably once a recreational area is now an ecological garden. And… oh, there are chickens roaming the grounds.

Inside, you’re confronted with an eccentric collection of collections. There’s a pool table repurposed as a display for shells, art books, retro design pieces and furniture, and lots and lots of plants. There’s even a well-loved Totoro plushie tucked away in the corner of a sofa. It’s a cacophony of ideas, feelings and stories, yet somehow there’s a sense of structure and cohesion to it all.

Around the reception area, I couldn’t find anyone to check me in, so I wandered around the main building until I found someone on a ladder doing repairs at the back. When I greeted him and explained that I had a reservation, he looked genuinely surprised, as he wasn’t expecting me until the following day. The man on the ladder, sporting a big, inviting smile, turned out to be Mitsu-san: a man of many talents, one of the owners, a handyman and a humble host.

He explained that he had inherited the property from his father. But rather than trying to restore it to its former glory, he, his wife Tae, their daughter Marie and their son-in-law Kazu had decided to take it in a completely different direction.

The Okada family had lovingly created an eco-friendly and utterly unique guesthouse, one that had more in common with a homestay than a luxury apartment complex. All the rooms were decorated differently, with lots of repurposed furniture, much like the lobby. Even though I wasn’t expected until the following day, Mitsu showed me two rooms to choose from.

One had a raised bed with a lovely view of the surf at Oki Beach. According to my host, it was a popular choice among surfers. The second room was more spacious and filled with retro music equipment, which I thought looked fun, so I opted for that one.

Before Mitsu-san left me to my own devices, he gave me a rundown of the property. He explained that I could use the wood-fired onsen next to the main building, which also explained the strong smell of burning wood. He also told me that every evening, there would be a family-style dinner in the lobby and dining area, shared with all the guests. He was rather secretive about what to expect, but assured me that it would be something special. Colour me intrigued…

The onsen was a real labour of love. The water was pumped up from a depth of 1,000 metres underground and was so rich in minerals that it left your skin feeling smooth and slightly slippery.

I was joined in the onsen first by an Australian pilgrim, and we talked about our reasons for walking the pilgrimage. A little later, Mitsu himself joined us for a quick dip. He then filled a thermos with some of the piping-hot water from the source and retreated to prepare for dinner.

The family dinners were, as promised, something special. It wasn't just about the lovely food, but about the warmth and sense of connection around the table. I stayed at Kaiyu for two nights and got to experience the family dinner twice. But I’ll only describe the second evening here. That, however, will have to wait for the next blog post…