Halfway to Enlightenment

On the 3rd of April, I crossed over into Ehime Prefecture, and with that—along with visiting Kanjizai-ji (40)—I have begun the third phase of the pilgrimage: shugyō, or enlightenment.

To celebrate this milestone, I would like to reflect on everything I have experienced so far in this small poem:

With each step, we leave something behind. It will never return.

With each step, we gain something—only for it to be lost with the next step.

Under clear blue skies, we pass mountains and valleys, rivers that pour into oceans.

In the pouring rain, through villages that have been eaten from the outside in.

We walk and walk—through bamboo forests and fields of rice. The smell of stripped pine trees and oranges.

Sand, soil, rocks, roots, asphalt, and concrete.

Sharing baths with strangers who are mirror images of ourselves. Tired feet, aching backs.

And we walk.

Dedicated to all the ohenro I’ve met during this first month of walking—those with whom I’ve shared walks, meals, homes, and baths, and who have shared small glimpses into their lives. We differ in so many ways, and yet we are alike in just as many.

Ganbare!

Deakwoo 🇰🇷

Simon 🇳🇱

Pir 🇩🇰

Makoto 🇯🇵

Pierre 🇨🇦

Christina 🇨🇦

Ando 🇯🇵

Kimiko 🇯🇵

Tristan 🇫🇷

Elisse 🇫🇷

Andrea 🇩🇪

Mark 🇺🇸

Bob 🇺🇸

Valentin 🇩🇪

Vincent 🇫🇷

Bryson 🇺🇸

Nala 🇬🇧

Prasana Mata 🇬🇧

Lesse 🇩🇰

Dino 🇬🇧

Arnoud 🇫🇷

Delfina 🇫🇷

Daniel 🇫🇷

Owen 🇦🇺

Sophie 🇦🇺

Guido 🇳🇱