After the seriousness of my last post, I thought a lighter subject would make for a nice change. Although it is a little off-topic, at least as far as the pilgrimage is concerned, I wanted to dedicate a few words to my love for those brilliant, body-nurturing, back-pain-healing, and leg-rejuvenating hot springs: the onsen.

The first time I visited Japan, in 2023, I had my first onsen experiences in the Gifu area. I had always been somewhat hesitant about spas in other countries, but Japan’s bathing culture completely won me over. My stay at a ryokan in Hirayu made me truly appreciate the relaxing and restorative qualities of spending a few days at an onsen resort.

Besides the healing and restorative nature of onsen, they also serve another purpose. I think that in many Western societies — some more than others — we have become unaccustomed to nakedness and to the ordinariness of the human body. I myself used to be somewhat prudish about this as well. In that sense, the onsen experience feels grounding, as it reminds you of the simple fact that we are just another animal species with the need to bathe and relax 😌

During the pilgrimage, my love — and need — for a dip in an onsen took on a whole different dimension. On the first night of the pilgrimage, I stayed at the shukubo of Anraku-ji (6), which had its own public bath. I was reminded of how wonderful it feels to soak after a long and intense day of hiking. After that, I started choosing my accommodations based on whether they had a public bath or were close to an onsen. Whenever I arrived early at my destination, I immediately started scanning the area for an onsen or sento (public bathhouse).

I’ve visited some truly wonderful ones during this trip. There was, of course, Dogo Onsen, which I briefly mentioned in a previous blog post: a historical and whimsical place, with its multi-storied structure, narrow wooden hallways, and staircases.

Just before hiking into Kochi, I stayed for a night at the Mercure Tosa Resort & Spa, a luxurious resort with beautiful natural indoor and outdoor onsen.

For the outdoor types, I can recommend Yamamizuki, a camping and glamping site on a mountain with three family onsen overlooking Shimanto and the Shimanto River estuary.

I also have to give a shout-out to Kaiyu, located next to Oki Beach. Mitsu-san has poured his heart and soul into his traditional wood-burner-heated onsen (see top picture). The water has an unmatched silky smoothness and clarity to it. It is even used to make the tea served during the family dinner.

Another stay I really enjoyed was at Saepa Mokoto in Hojo. There, I stayed in a Japanese-style family room that included a private indoor and outdoor bath, complete with a sauna and plunge bath.

I could go on, but for convenience’s sake, I’ve provided a list of all the onsen and accommodations with public baths that I visited in Shikoku. The star rating applies only to the baths themselves, not to the accommodations.

Anrakuji Temple — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Kamiyama Hot Spring — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Iyashi-tei KOKU — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Yakuoji Onsen — ⭐️⭐️

Tanotano Onsen — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Kochi Tosa Resort & Spa — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Kobushinosato — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Yamamizuki — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Kaiyu — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Garyunoyu — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Furuiwaya — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Chouchin-ya — ⭐️⭐️

Dogo Onsen — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Dogo Hakuro — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Seapa Makoto — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Imabari Station Hotel — ⭐️⭐️

Niihama Hot Spring PANAS — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

HOTEL ROUTE INN Shikokuchuo — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Zentsuji Shukubo — ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Tresta Shirayama — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Super Hotel Takamatsu Kinenkan — ⭐️

Takamatsu Pokapoka Onsen — ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Ode to Onsen

Pilgrimage epilogue 1 - Was my body ready?

Closure and Release